The outlying islands of Indonesia function on a charming concept called jam karet (rubber time) and the wonderful thing about a sailing charter in a land with more than 17,000 islands is that you’re free to change tack at will to explore any enticing shore. On little Moyo Island we hired rickety motorbikes and rode into the jungle to swim at a waterfall that cascaded through a series of pearly blue pools. On Satonda Island we walked over the rim of the volcano to explore the mysterious crater lake. Exploration by divers has shown that there is no access to the sea and legend has it that this saltwater lake was created by a giant tsunami when nearby Mount Tambora exploded (in 1815), in the biggest eruption in recorded history. Researchers claim that the isolated lake is a living textbook example of the organisms and environment of lakes back in Earth’s Precambrian period (around 600 million years ago).Monkeys, deer and wild pigs forage on the jungle slopes of the volcano but the lake is frequently cited in blogs as being mysteriously devoid of fish. When we paddled out with kayaks and stand-up paddle boards, however, even a casual glance was enough to show that it is actually well stocked with fish. I asked a local man if somebody had released fish here but he claimed that there’d been fish here since he was a kid and came with his family to tie rocks to the ‘magical’ trees along the shore so that they could make wishes. Tradition holds that if your wish comes true you must return to ‘release the rock’.A little resort has been built on the landing beach at Satonda but the island has retained much of its mystery. Robba suggested we anchor here for the evening to enjoy an unforgettable wildlife performance and, sure enough, as the sun began to set the sky filled with the shadowy, flapping forms of thousands of giant fruit bats, heading for the fruit trees of nearby Sumbawa.“For anyone with an interest in wildlife and a love of pure sailing adventure this area’s hard to beat,” Sebastien Pierre, dive-master and cruise director, shouted in my ear as we skipped across viciously swirling currents in the biggest of Dunia Baru’s three RIBs the next morning. Komodo is notorious for the riptide currents that frequently convert the narrow channels between islands into what appear to be rushing rivers.